Trothe

6 minute read

Lab grown or natural

They are the same mineral, and a gemmologist needs a machine to tell them apart. What separates them is price, and the gap is now roughly fourteen times.

Two loose round brilliant diamonds side by side with jeweller's tweezers

They are the same material, and that is not marketing

A lab grown diamond is carbon in the same cubic crystal structure as a mined one. Same hardness at Mohs 10, same refractive index, same dispersion, same everything an eye or a jeweller's loupe can reach. Telling them apart requires spectroscopic equipment looking for growth patterns and trace nitrogen.

This is not the case with simulants. Cubic zirconia and moissanite are different minerals entirely and can be identified across a room by anyone who knows what to look for.

The price gap is now enormous, and still widening

At one carat, H colour, VS clarity, eye clean and excellently cut, a lab stone and a natural stone are separated by roughly a factor of fourteen. That is not a small premium for provenance. It is the difference between a stone being most of the ring's cost and being a minor part of it.

The gap has widened every year as lab production has scaled. That direction matters if you are thinking about the stone as a store of value.

Resale is where the difference bites

Natural diamonds hold a resale market, though a far weaker one than most buyers assume: the retail markup means a stone typically resells for a fraction of what was paid. Lab diamonds have almost no resale market at all, and falling production costs mean the stone you buy today competes with a cheaper one next year.

The honest framing is that neither is an investment. One is a poor one and the other is not one at all. If that reframes the decision, it should be toward spending less rather than more.

What to spend the difference on

The interesting consequence of cheap lab stones is that carat stops being the constraint. At natural prices, budget forces a small stone. At lab prices, the same budget reaches a larger stone, a better cut, or a coloured stone that is not fungible at all.

Cut is where the money goes furthest. An excellently cut stone at a lower colour grade outperforms a poorly cut stone two grades higher, every time, because cut is what makes a diamond return light.

Coloured stones are the third answer

Sapphire and ruby are corundum at Mohs 9, hard enough for daily wear without qualification, and they are not interchangeable commodities. A teal sapphire has no equivalent lab-priced substitute in the way a colourless diamond does, so what you pay reflects the individual stone rather than a falling market rate.

Common questions

Are lab grown diamonds real diamonds?
Yes. Chemically, physically and optically identical to mined diamonds. Distinguishing them requires spectroscopic equipment, not a loupe.
How much cheaper are lab grown diamonds?
At one carat, H colour and VS clarity, roughly fourteen times cheaper than an equivalent natural stone. The gap has widened every year as production has scaled.
Do lab grown diamonds hold their value?
No, and neither really do natural ones. Lab stones have almost no resale market and compete with cheaper production each year. Natural stones resell for a fraction of retail. Neither should be bought as an investment.
Will a lab grown diamond scratch or cloud over time?
No. It is Mohs 10, the same as a natural diamond, and it does not cloud. That claim comes from confusion with older simulants such as cubic zirconia.